Dijon Beef Stew with Rosemary Cornmeal Dumplings

Here, friends, is the winter meal that is sweeping the nation. Developed by one of my nearest and dearest friends Amber Fries (recently called the Martha Stewart of Facebook), and lauded by Sarah of "A Smattering of Babblement in All Things Super Sweet" this Burgundian inspired beef stew is delicious.

In my mind there's nothing better on a cold, almost December night than a warm bowl of soup and the cornmeal dumplings floating on top of this make for a dinner that is particularly savory and hearty and warming.

If I made it again (and I will) I might start cooking very early in the day so that the beef was able to stew till it was falling apart and the flavors could meld together even more. That said, if you find yourself with a chilling evening, an open bottle of red wine, and an an hour and a half to cook, this makes a delectable weeknight dinner.

Oh how I wished for leftovers -- and I think everyone else did too.

Dijon Beef Stew with Rosemary Cornmeal Dumplings
For the stew
2 pounds cubed beef stew meat
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
1 cup dry red wine
1 14.5-ounce can petite diced tomatoes
2 cups beef broth
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons smooth Dijon mustard, such as Grey Poupon
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dumplings
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3/4 cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1. Combine the stew meat and flour in a large bowl and toss to coat evenly.
2. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large stockpot. Add the onions and carrots and sauté until they are soft, about 5 minutes. Shake any excess flour from meat, then add it to the stockpot and sauté until the meat is browned, 8-10 minutes.
3. Add the red wine, scraping up brown bits from the bottom of the stock pot.
4. Add the tomatoes, broth and thyme and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low; cover and simmer for 45-50 minutes.
5. Blend in the mustard and season to taste with salt and pepper.
6. Stir together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Using your fingertips, blend in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and rosemary, stirring just until the dough is moistened.
7. Drop the dumpling dough by heaping tablespoons onto the top of the stew, placing them at least one inch apart. Reduce the heat to low and gently simmer, covered, until the tops of the dumplings are dry to the touch, approximately 15 minutes.

Note: Amber reports that for leftovers you'd be wise to keep the dumpling dough and the stew separate and make new dumplings as you re-heat the soup. Sarah says she doesn't mind at all that after a night in the fridge the dumplings disperse into the stew. Either, or, it's up to you.

Enjoy.

Frog's Eye Salad

The first thing my mother said when she saw this on the Thanksgiving table was, "Please do not take a photo of that and put it on your blog." She said this as I was whipping out my camera to take a photo of this distinctly Utah treat: Frog's Eye Salad.

My brother was gifted this salad on Thanksgiving morning. He did not particularly want it. I can't imagine why. I saw it sitting on the corner of the counter in a tupperware and was intrigued -- I have a secret fondness for distinctly weird regional recipes.

We hid the salad only to make it reappear on the Thanksgiving table, right next to Mom's place setting. It looked so nice next to the turkey, sweet & mashed potatoes, onion confit, cranberry sauce, rolls, green beans, and stuffing.

Based on a tasting I thought it was tapioca, crushed pineapple, mandarin oranges and mini marshmallows, held together by a binder of cool whip. In my search for a recipe, however, I discovered that what I thought was tapioca might actually have been pearl pasta. In my mind this only adds intrigue and mystery to this dish that may have graced many a Thanksgiving table, but will likely not be invited back to ours.

Here's a recipe (just in case my description has made your mouth water.) If I were to ever make this I think I'd stick with regular old white mini-marshmallows rather than colored minis. But the color does jazz up the table... so its really a matter of creative inspiration.

FROG'S EYE SALAD
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 (8-ounce) can crushed pineapple, undrained
1 (20-ounce) can pineapple chunks in its own juice, undrained
2 (11-ounce) cans mandarin orange segments, drained
1 large egg, beaten
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 1/3 cups (8 ounces) Acine di Pepe Pasta, uncooked
3 1/2 cups (8 ounces) frozen non-dairy whipped topping, thawed and divided
3 cups miniature marshmallows
1/2 cup flaked coconut (optional)
Maraschino cherries (optional)

1. In medium saucepan, stir together sugar, flour and salt.
2. Drain pineapple, reserving juice to equal 1 cup. With whisk, gradually stir juice and egg into sugar mixture. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until mixture comes to a boil. Stir in lemon juice. Cool mixture to room temperature.
3. Meanwhile, cook pasta according to package directions; drain. Rinse with cold water to cool quickly; drain well.
4. In large bowl, stir together pineapple juice mixture and pasta. Cover; refrigerate several hours or overnight.
5. Add crushed pineapple and chunks, oranges, 2 cups whipped topping, marshmallows and coconut if you are using it; mix gently and thoroughly. Cover; refrigerate until cold.
6. Top with remaining whipped topping; garnish with cherries, if desired.

Makes 12 servings.

Markets Near and Far

From the markets of Dijon and Beaune to the long, pre-holiday grocery store lines, and long lists of ingredients and things to do: Happy Thanksgiving!

After three days of Asian eating: Sunday dim sum, Monday Chinese food, Tuesday Vietnamese food, I am ready for some good American chow. My contribution to the table will be a rich onion confit with pine nuts and raisins. I'm actually looking forward to blanching and peeling all those onions -- can you believe it?

I'm dreaming up a dessert in my brain; we'll see what happens. As usual, mom seems to have it all dialed in.

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Curry

A couple of weeks ago I returned to my little writing hamlet in Point Reyes for the weekend. This was just after I returned from France and I was far from adjusted: no cooking, no sleeping, a little bit confused by the lack of large monuments and sweeping boulevards.

On the drive out from the city I was overcome with a huge desire to cook. I stopped at the Palace Market for supplies, then made my way up the dark winding hill towards the house. I arrived just as the sun was setting, unpacked my goods and got to work making this simple, warm, and filling soup. The recipe comes from my dear friend Sarah's mother, Marguerite Henderson, who is a culinary queen. I hope she'll approve of the minor modifications I made to her recipe for Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Curry.

As the soup flavors simmered I set to work making granola. The next morning I churned out a monster batch of chocolate chip cookies. After a few weeks away from the kitchen it felt just right to be back: music on low, red wine poured,cold night outside, warm oven inside. Perfectly content.

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Curry
4 cups roasted butternut squash -- about 1 pound squash, or use pre-cut.
4 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 pink lady apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1” cubes
4 cups chicken broth
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup half and half
Garnish with sour cream, chopped green onions

Carefully slice butternut squash in half and scoop out seeds. Place two halves flesh side down on baking sheet that has been covered with aluminum foil and drizzled with olive oil. Roast in 425 oven for about 40 minutes, or until done. You can tell it is done when you can stab the squash with a knife and the blade cleanly slices the cooked vegetable flesh. Once butternut squash is roasted, let it cool. The scoop out cooked flesh and use in recipe below.

In a large saucepan, heat butter. Saute the onion until soft, about 2-3 minutes. Add the cooked squash and apples. Cover; simmer on low for 2-3 minutes. Add the broth, curry powder, salt, sugar and pepper. Cover; simmer on low heat for 20 to 30 minutes to meld flavors. Transfer to a blender, food processor or use an immersion blender to puree the soup (do this in small batches if using blender or processor.) Transfer to saucepan, add the half and half and simmer the soup for another 2 minutes on low just until heated through. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and chopped onions.
Serves 6-8.

The foods of Strasbourg

Here, my friends, is Strasbourg. I had the most divine meals in this beautiful city, perhaps my favorite stop on my entire tour. The most memorable meal was in a fancy restaurant called Maison Kamerzell which is located in a very old half-timbered building right by the old and majestic cathedral. Maison Kammerzell has lovely amber colored stained glass windows and at night it is lit up and looks like something straight out of a fairy tale.

I dined alone in an ancient dining room and ate venison with chestnuts, mushrooms, and a smattering of jewel toned pomegranate seeds across the top. The venison was served alongside a big bowl of spatzel and I ate venison, then spatzel, then venison and spatzel together till both bowls were clean. The meat was stewed and falling apart and the broth was beefy and rich.

When I finished I was so full, but there was not one ounce of regret in my body. This was a dish I will dream about all winter and every winter to come. I hope to try my hand at making it soon, perhaps with beef not game?

M.F.K. Fisher dined at Maison Kamerzell and had a life changing gastronomic experience too. Her gastronomic moment centered around a potato chip -- a potato chip!-- but that is a tale for another evening.

Though I don't have photos of the venison -- it was delicious but not very photogenic -- I do have pictures of my tartine (mild goat cheese drizzled with honey and slivered almonds), pungent, orange infused pain d'epice, and sweet and savory bretzles.

Isn't it amazing how many memories can be conjured through meals? I look at these photos and in spite of the fact I am full sated, my mouth waters just a little bit. The heart's mind and palate is amazing that way.

Inspiration from M.F.K. Fisher

I just saw this quote scribbled on the top of a draft of Chapter 10:

"I want life, want to feel, to realize it with all of my being."

And how!

Train Rides & Mountain Tops

I was looking at my trip photos with a friend last night and today I just can't resist posting a few more shots of Switzerland. It was so unexpectedly beautiful.

The second day there it rained and in the late afternoon I took a rickety train to the top of a mountain peak for views that stretched all the way to France, Italy, and Spain (very far off in the distance.)

I was the only person on the train except for the driver and his girlfriend, who got to sit up front next to him. The squeaky train inched up the mountain and then stopped. The driver told me he would stay at the small station for thirty-five minutes and then turn around and head back down hill.

It was cold and getting dark but I tromped through the mud to the very top of the mountain and stood there alone for a few minutes. These moments of quiet were one of my favorite parts of the trip.

After all the birthday fun...

Stick a fork in me, I'm done!

I abandoned the camera for the weekend in favor of really living my 32nd birthday.
Highlights included: coffee, frites, croque madames, omlettes, and roasted pumpkin salad at Presse.

Shopping at Juniper.

Jazzy M&M monster cookies and cozy late afternoon wine drinking at my friend Molly's amazing home (she designs windows for Anthropologie!)

Birthday Brunch at Boat Street Cafe.

Shopping in Fremont at old favorites Les Amis, Essenza, and the Sunday Flea Market.

Birthday dinner of thai food, wine, and for dessert: Guinness chocolate cake with chocolate frosting, a sprinkling of sea salt, and one huge candle.

Can it get any better?

Oh yes, farewell lunch today at Matt's in the Market.

What will 32 look like?

Thirty-one was a pretty good year -- it is crazy to think that 365 days ago I was working on a book proposal and now I am getting ready to write CHAPTER 11 of my book. Wow!

I am excited to see what thirty-two will bring. Do you think I will feel different when I wake up on Sunday morning?

I am off for a weekend in Seattle. By the time I get back I will be older and hopefully wiser.

P.S. This photo was taken in August by my Dad. It is me with my advance check. Trust me, the number on the check is huge -- ha!
P.P.S. If you know me, you already know I look different. I am sporting a sassy short do and some even sassier bangs. Very 1920s...

Swiss Miss

On a rainy morning in Paris I walked from a friend's house on Boulevard St. Germain to Gare du Nord to catch my train to Switzerland. I was headed to Vevey, on Lake Geneva, in the Lavaux wine region. M.F.K. Fisher and her second husband, Dillwyn Parrish, owned a small plot of land just north of Vevey. They lived there together for only a year, but it was a very happy time in her life.

The geography of this area is amazing. The vineyards literally seem to grow out of the waters of Lake Geneva. Add in the sunshine and the fall colors and it was a spectacular day. I hiked for hours -- all the vineyards have well built paths and visitors are encouraged to wander.

Late in the afternoon I used my sleuthing skills to locate (I think) the site of M.F.K. Fisher's Swiss home. I must be a true English Major nerd because this was a very exciting part of the trip.

Afterwards, I hiked back to Vevey, stopping occasionally to pick some pinot grapes right from the vine. After my light lunch of bread, cheese, and chasselas white wine grapes I was quite hungry.

That evening I ate a huge meal of salad, frites, and fried perch with lots of fresh lemon squeezed on top. Delicious, and much better than the 'speciality of the house:' horse tartar. Thankfully, if there is one word I know in French, it is cheval...

The Real Tartine

One afternoon I walked all over the 8th in search of lunch. I had a poor map and an address, and not being particularly directionally inclined I walked around and around and around until I found Boulangepicier, a bakery and lunch joint operated by restaurant superstar Alain Ducasse.

There were so many lunch options to choose from: green salads with lardons and poached eggs, lentil salads with herbs and tiny tomatoes and an array of sandwiches. There were the traditional ones: jambon et fromage, and more alluring picks like tartines (open faced sandwiches) with smoked salmon. I picked a tartine with soft goat cheese, figs, arugula, and a sprinkling of pine nuts across the top.

It was so pretty to look at, what with all that fun pink and green, and very good to eat. I ate at a tiny table outside and it was one of my favorite meals in Paris.

For dessert: a cannele from Fauchon. I have to say, it wasn't as good as the cannele from Ken's. Maybe my next trip to France will involve a trek to Bordeaux, the real home of cannele.

Bon Appetite!

Boulangepicier
73 Blvd de Courcelles, 8th
metro: Courcelles
cross street: Rue des Renaudes

P.S. With a good map this place would not be hard to find at all... I just started out looking for someplace else, got lost, then had to back track to find my way to lunch.

P.P.S. Prosciutto! I forgot about the prosciutto!It was an integral part of my beloved tartine...

The Quai Voltaire

As I have mentioned before, I stayed at the Quai Voltaire, the same hotel M.F.K. and Al Fisher stayed at when they first arrived in France. They paid two dollars a day for a room with two twin beds and breakfast. I paid... slightly more.

The hotel was in the midst of a small renovation. When I arrived, I was a little peeved -- the door number to my room was written on it in pencil and the moldings and wall paper in the hallway outside were peeling.

Then I had a thought -- this might be the same decor M.F.K. Fisher saw. That made it much much cooler and I had to take several photos to document the 'before;' I am sure the 'after' shots will be much fancier and modern.

Did I mention my room still sported red plush carpeting, tapestry walls, and a very old and ornate desk? For the average traveler this might seem a bit to vintage, but for me it was divine -- the perfect way to ease my brain into the real purpose of my trip -- book research!

The Last Days of Gourmet

How sad is this?

www.lastdaysofgourmet.com

Not what I needed on this slightly dreary Tuesday afternoon.

To be honest, I haven't even cracked my last issue yet. It is still in the plastic waiting for unwrapping. I'll savor every last word.

And then there was the food...

The last time I was in Paris I wasn't interested in food. Sure, those patisserie windows were alluring and it was fun to visit markets and view the local shoppers and colorful fruits and veggies, but food was not my "thing."

How my world has changed.

This trip, what I noticed more than amazing architecture or brilliant fashion was the food. I wished that I had an extra stomach (or three) along with a huge expense account to let me justifiably purchase some of the beautiful treats I saw.

All of these photos were taken on my first Sunday afternoon, on the Ile de Cite. It turns out that tiny neighborhood is packed with some very small, very high end little food shops. It was such fun to gaze into the windows.

I started my walk with a double scoop of ice cream from Berthillion. There were so many great sounding flavors (can you believe I turned down dark chocolate and salted caramel?) but I had been advised to try one of the fruit sorbets, and I am always a sucker for a good slice of vanilla.

A scoop of passion fruit and a scoop of vanilla it was. Both were very good but the sorbet was so tart it made my lips pucker and my tongue hurt. It was almost too tart to really enjoy. I meant to go back for another scoop on another day, but I never did.

But don't worry... there were still plenty of eating adventures.

To Start: Paris

Returning to Paris was like getting together with an old friend from high school. I worried that we wouldn't have much in common anymore but was amazed and delighted to discover that we might have even more in common than we did before.

My days there (a few at the start and then one at the end of my trip) were perfect. I stayed at the Qui Voltaire, and my huge hotel room windows opened up to the Seine and views of the Louvre. The first thing I did when I arrived on Sunday afternoon was open my windows wide, let the Paris air in, and stare out at the city, the river, the rows of antique book and postcard sellers.

It was a perfect day. I showered and dressed and then went wandering. Once upon a time I spent a couple of months in Paris. It was spring time and I took French classes in the mornings and then strolled and read and wrote in the afternoons. Somehow I thought that after six years (and numerous life experiences) I wouldn't remember much about the city or enjoy Paris as much as I did New York.

How wrong I was.

I loved getting lost and then figuring out just where I was. I loved discovering that the street that was my favorite in 1998 (the very first time I went to Paris) is still my favorite street. Rue Vavin remains the home to a sweet set of shops: Marie Papier (a glorious paper store), an amazing game and puzzle shop, Petite Bateau, and L'Occitaine. Yes, Petite Bateau and L'Occitaine are much easier to find in the U.S. today than they were ten years ago, but the familiarity, in this case, was extremely comforting.

These photos were taken on that first afternoon when I had no agenda. I could have squeezed in a museum (and probably should have) but instead I chose to wander the Left Bank and the Ile de St. Louis, basking in the late October sunlight.

It was an invigorating day and made me want to take up globetrotting again. How easy it is to forget how travel makes us feel: completely alive and capable of doing anything.

Tartine's Pumpkin Loaf

I popped into Tartine on Monday, just to see what was new. I know, Tartine was the last place my belly needed to be after two weeks in France. But I'd been to Bi-Rite for crispy, juicy apples, a delicata squash, and organic greens. How could I resist the urge?

Somehow, I did. But I also happened to notice that my beloved apricot zucchini bread had been replaced by the more seasonal pumpkin bread. So sad.

But pumpkin bread was what I was craving when I woke up at 6 AM and I could not talk my stomach out of it.

I was at Tartine's door at 8AM, risking yet another parking ticket by parking in a loading zone (bad Anne!) But was it worth it. My slice of breakfast bread hit the spot, fueling me as I boarded muni and began my trek to the Writer's Grotto, where I am subletting work space this month.

P.S. My camera remains on my dresser along with my 300+ France photos (to be shared soon). So this lovely photo from a lovely blog I've discovered called eating/sf will have to do. And the recipe? Thanks to the marvelous Tartine cookbook for that.


Tartine's Pumpkin Tea Cake
1-2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup + 2 tablespoons pumpkin puree
1 cup vegetable oil
1-1/3 cups sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
2 tablespoons sugar


Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a standard size loaf pan with parchment.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Set aside.

In a large bowl, add the oil, sugar, pumpkin puree, and salt. Whisk vigorously until combined. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each so it is completely incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Sift the flour-spice mixture over this and stir with the spatula or a wooden spoon until just combined.

Pour batter in pan and smooth the top. Sprinkle evenly with 1 tablespoon sugar; you can also garnish with a few pepitas (pumpkin seeds) as they do at Tartine. Bake until a cake tester comes out with few crumbs clinging, about an hour. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then unmold and cool on a rack completely. Serve at room temperature.

What and When to Eat

I am back from France. My body seems to love the fine hour of four. I wake up bright eyed, convinced that it is much later in the day. And then... no. Usually I can toss and turn till about four-ish and then something in my brain compels me to get up. This morning it was a need to reposition my bed so that annoying light from outside would not hit my restless eyes.

But here is the real question -- is 5:30 too early for breakfast?

After all it is mid-afternoon in France, right about the time I might be looking for my espresso, macaroon, or other treat.

Adjustment is hard.